Day 7: Los Arcos- Viana (17.9 kms)

I start late again from Los Arcos at 8:20 am after a very nice breakfast at the pilgrim hostel.  The skies are grey and cloudy but it does not rain.

It is a slight uphill walk to Sansol then to Torres del Rio.  I stop there together with some pilgrims for a cafe con leche, a banana and freshly squeezed orange juice at 11 am after which I am raring to go on.

I walk down the earth-packed trail at noon as blue skies start to peek out, and I feel great!  I think to myself, the Way is difficult but there are just so many good vibes around that it does not feel so tough. Everyone is exactly where they want to be.  I am where I want to be.

As the blue skies take over and the sun begins to shine along the gradual downhill winding gravel path to Viana, I find myself belting out the song "Corner of the sky" that I used to sing with my college friends. Then as now, we search for our corner of the sky. "Rivers belong where they can ramble, eagles belong where they can fly. I got to be where my spirits can run free, gotta find my corner of the sky..."

On the trail, I meet Andrea, the German girl I had met 3 days earlier in Zubiri. She is wearing her Crocs as her boots hurt. My feet are also hurting in my boots and she urges me to change to my Teva sandals. It works and I almost skip along to Viana.  I walk along with Andrea and we arrive there at 3 pm.

It is Holy Thursday and a group plans to go to mass at 7 pm then have a pilgrim dinner after.

Looking back at Los Arcos

Wildflowers

Skies and earth

Bikers on the Way

Blue skies this time

Cairns left by pilgrims

Torres del Rio coffee stop

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Torres del Rio

Wow - what a sky!

Anyone need boots?

Arriving at the Albergueria Andres Munoz in Viana

Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Asuncion de Viana

Viana Church Ruins

Dinner with other pilgrims at Viana

Inside the Viana Iglesia

Day 6: Estella - Los Arcos (22 kms)

I leave a bit late -- about 8:30 am.  I first have a coffee and cream pastry, then start my walk.  It is drizzling again, that continuous light unending rain -- the tsirimiri.  It continues on up the gradual uphill to Irache where the wine fountain is. Although sadly, since I get there about 10 am, not a drop is left.

The uphill continues on to Villamayor de Monjardin where I have another cafe con leche and a media bocadillo franceza (scrambled eggs on a half baguette) for lunch at 12 noon.  The Tres Amigos from South Korea are also there and we chat a bit.  From there, the rains continue on through country roads and lush green fields and hills, vineyards and olive tree groves under grey and cloudy skies.  Achingly beautiful scenery.

My feet are getting very sore and a pressure point on my right ankle is bothering me. I am in a trance-like state. I hear and feel the rain pitter-pattering on my raincoat.  I see the drops falling down my cap hood.  I feel my solitariness yet my belonging to the whole scheme of things.  My thoughts are wandering all over the place.  Endless hills are on sight, as well as the unending trail. The phrase der Weg ist die Ziel in German, or roughly, "the way is the goal," keeps on playing in my mind, like a mantra.

Finally at 4 pm, a city appears. It is Los Arcos, my goal for the day. I check in at a private pilgrim house, Casa de la Abuela -- the owner and hospitalero is very kind and welcoming as is the place.

I go with a group of pilgrims to mass at the church where a pilgrim blessing is given at the end.  Later we have dinner at Restaurant Mavi recommended by the hostel owner. I have a great sopa cocido, stewed chicken, and flan plus red wine, the pilgrim menu all for 11 euros.  As we walk back to the hostel, it starts raining again.

Wine fountain at Irache.  Tip: get there early.  Tip for the early: leave some for the latecomers. :-)

Grimacing cat, not so happy with the rain...

Grey clouds on the Way

Villamayor de Monjardin

Church at Los Arcos

Leaving Los Arcos