Showing posts with label Foncebadon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Foncebadon. Show all posts

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Day 24: Foncebaddon - Ponferrada (27.3 kms)

We join the kundalini yoga class at 8 to 9 am at the albergue.  It is different from my usual ashtanga and vinyasa yoga classes but nice too.  After yoga and breakfast, it is already 10 am by the the time we start our hike. We hug then wave goodbye to the hospitelaros, a relaxed bohemian bunch -- Manuel scratching the tummy of Tato d' gato (a black cat), David, Marina, Leila the pilgrim shepherd dog who followed me yesterday on the trail, and Perrina, the black house dog.  Before we go, as my sister, complete with technical eyegear and technical outfit turns to David, he steps back and says with a start -- "wow, you look like a professional pilgrim".  He probably realizes he had made a gaffe and tries to make up by saying "it's the first time I saw you with your sunglasses".  While walking we wonder and laugh about what that could have meant.  From then on, I teasingly call my sister "ProPil".

It is another beautiful day. The sun is out. The sky is blue. The views are breathtaking.

   The world is charged with the grandeur of God.

    It will flame out, like shining from shook foil;

    It gathers to a greatness, like the ooze of oil 

It was Gerard Manley Hopkins who wrote these lines in his poem, God's Grandeur, which I remember from a university class.

It is uphill for about an hour all the way to Cruz de Ferro at an altitude of 1504 meters. We pick up some stones on the way.  Manuel had earlier explained that the stones represent your burdens in the world and you cast them on the hill to free yourself from these burdens. I bring along 3 stones -- they represent my insecurities, regrets, and fears.  I leave them all behind completely on that hill. I add another white stone -- it represents the hope for a life always lived in the now and the present moment.

I remember the hymn we used to sing back at convent school-- "And he says, cast your burdens upon me those who are heavily laden...come to me and I will give you rest".  I later find the passage in a bible app that I have.  It is from Matthew 11:28-30. “Come to me, all who labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest. Take my yoke upon you, and learn from me, for I am gentle and lowly in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. For my yoke is easy, and my burden is light.”

From Cruz de Ferro, it is downhill to Manjarin, where there is an interesting-looking albergue which has no electricity or running water. After that is El Acebo where we have lunch from 12 to 1 pm-- one of the places with the best tasting food we had on the Camino. It is another very nice-looking town.

It is another very rocky downhill to Molinaseca, again a nice quaint town where I have a chocolate drink at a cafe by the river while my sister takes her usual "Aquarius" drink.  This place is worth a stop, I think.

From here, we follow the main highway on a pedestrian lane, then pass some trails and roads through a town called Campo, and finally reach Ponferrada at about 7 pm.  The municipal albergue is very nice and we get a 4-bed dorm to ourselves with a great view of snow-capped mountains. After a shower, we have dinner and relax at the Restaurant El Triskel close by.  After a time, we realize that it is 5 minutes to 10 pm.  My sister packs her dessert and like Cinderellas, we make a run back for our albergue.  We arrive at exactly 10 pm, although it turns out that the curfew is 10:30 pm for this one -- and the hospitalero, who is waiting outside, says "tranquila, tranquila" (relax, take it easy) when he sees us running.


We wave goodbye to David, Manuel, Marina -- our hospitaleros in Monte Irago Albergue, Foncebadon

Atop Cruz de Ferro, 1504 meters
  
Los Montes de Leon
 
Sunny day, beautiful views of snow-capped mountains

Fuzzy cloud formations

Cloud puff messages
      

  
Manjarin

Ponferrada Albergue with view of snowcapped mountains

Saturday, April 13, 2013

Day 23: Murias de Rechivaldo - Foncebadon (23 kms)

We leave the albergue at 8:30 am. Oliver says the day will be clear and sunny -- and points out the blue sky under a line of clouds in the horizon.  He says that the line of clouds above the blue sky is the night weather and that the blue sky/clear weather will take over the grey.  I hope so.  The last few days have felt like an endless slog in the rain.  He urges us to take off the rainpants we had put on earlier.  We do.  And Oliver is right.  As we walk on the Camino, the sky turns from a light grey to a clear blue sky with wisps of cloud.

The Way has also transformed from the gravel tracks beside the main highway with huge trucks, buses and fast cars back to a tranquil track by a quiet country road.  Now I can actually hear myself think, and once again marvel at the beautiful countryside.

We arrive at Santa Catalina de Somoza at 10:30 and have a cafe con leche.  Here we meet Matthew again, whom we have encountered on and off for the past number of days, and who had actually started on the exact same day I had from Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port.  We ask him where he is going next (Foncebadon also) and we tell him how we are having a difficult time trying to catch up on our schedule. He shows us a brochure he had gotten from Astorga (produced by the Xunta de Galicia at http://www.caminodesantiagoastorga.com) which gives an alternative fast itinerary.  As I count back the days in that schedule, I am elated to find out that, in fact, this is exactly the itinerary we need to be able to get to Santiago de Compostela in these next 9 days!  We wonder at how the answers to our problems/prayers seem to come at exactly the right time on the Camino.  Is this what they mean when they say "the Camino provides"?

The new itinerary, which we plan to follow from now has 5 days with walks over 30 kms.  We are tired but it seems doable.  Here is our new schedule:

April 13. Astorga - Rabanal del Camino (20 kms)
April 14. Rabanal del Camino - Ponferrada (33.3 kms)
April 15. Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo (22.9  kms)
April 16. Villafranca del Bierzo - El Cebreiro (30.7 kms)
April 17. El Cebreiro - Calvor (36.2 kms)
April 18. Calbor - Portomorain (27.6 kms)
April 19. Portomarin - Melide (38.5 kms)
April 20. Melide - Arco do Pino/O Pedrouzo (34.3 kms)
April 21. Arco do Pino/O Pedrouzo (20 kms)

We only need to change the first stretch (today) from Astorga - Rabanal del Camino to Murias de Rechivaldo - Foncebadon (next town after Rabanal del Camino).

Next up is El Ganso at 11:30 am for a cola.  A nice gradual uphill later with clear skies and great views of snow-capped mountains-- the Montes de Leon, particularly the Monte Teleno -- and we are at Rabanal del Camino at 12:30.  Time to stop for an hour to take in a peregrino meal of spaghetti and pollo, washed down with a beer per advice of Oliver, who says it keeps in the water versus wine that takes out the water in the body.

Another two hours hike and at 4 pm we are in Foncebadon, up a mountain. We stay at Monte de Irago Albergue, a cozy place full of color and warmth. 

During the day, we encounter Jean Marc, a Frenchman from Marseille, and Daniel from Trento in Italia.  They have been walking a few days together now. It turns out the Frenchman can speak only French and the Italian only Italian and Spanish. I can speak une peau Francais and un poquito Español.  It does not take much to communicate.  As Obdulio, a Spaniard we have encountered also several times on the way and who speaks only Spanish, says later, as we are relaxing and "communicating" in the albergue courtyard -- todo el mundo hay solo una idioma -  all the world has only one language.  What is that, I ask? I think it is the language of humanity.

We have a terrific salad and paella dinner prepared by the albergue hospitaleros Manuel and David.  Afterwards, Manuel sings us 2 Spanish rhumba songs, Echale, Echale by the Martires del Compas and El Aire de la Calle by Los Delincuentes (and recommends to us another song to listen to by the same group -- A La Luz del Lorenzo).  It was great!

In the evening, I look out the window and the sky is dotted with stars -- I can pick out the Southern Cross and the Big Dipper.  The mountains are quietly silhouetted against the night sky.  Lovely day, lovely night.


Daniel, el Italiano, and Jean Marc, le Francois

Steady uphill

Thankful for blue skies and sunny weather

Shepherdess and sheep

Cozy fireplace of Monte Irago Albergue

Monte Irago Albergue, Foncebadon

View from Foncebadon